Key Factors When Looking After Your Leaf Blower

by:Jiali     2020-08-14
Airflow The first and most obvious factor to monitor about your leaf blower's performance is its airflow. Check regularly to make sure that no screws or bolts have worked loose. If there is excessive vibration, this is a sign that either the impeller or motor is loose on its mountings.
Then check for any obstructions that may be impeding its performance, starting with the air filter. This aspect causes the most common problems. There may also be solid obstructions in the airway, which you should carefully remove without damaging the machine.
Check the impeller. The blower's airflow is created when this sucks air into the unit and pushes it through the blower tube. If the impeller is loose or cracked, it will not operate correctly and should be fitted securely or replaced. To replace the impeller, unscrew the cover and lift off. Wearing gloves and using a socket wrench, hold it in place as you pull it out. Replace it with another one the same size from an authorized dealer.
Electrical Issues If you are using an electric machine and it cuts out or does not start, then your first port of call is the trip switch on your domestic power supply circuit, followed by the fuse on the machine's power plug (as well as the cut-out on any extension lead). Another potential cause is the wire connection with the machine's operating switch. If this is securely attached, the switch is not broken and there is no break in the leads, then you may have a motor fault.
The most common problem, and the easiest for you to fix yourself, is burnt-out motor brushes. Your manufacturer will in most cases have supplied you with a spare pair so keep them in a safe place! Sooner or later you will need them. Observe your brochure's instructions for accessing, removing and replacing the brushes.
Petrol Engine Maintenance The 2-stroke petrol engines require maintenance and cleaning to avoid machine failure or difficulty. Pay particular attention to getting the fuel/oil mixture accurate and consistent. Compared to older engines, these days less oil is required in the mix. This is a result of tighter emissions standards and consequent technical improvements.
Old mixes of 16:1 or 32:1 should not be used and with the superior synthetic oil now available, even old 70s or 80's engines are often able to run on a 40:1 mix. New machines all run on 50:1 and expert users all recommend the use of synthetic oil for environmental and machine protection reasons. To avoid any mistakes in your workshop, use a set of clean colour-coded fuel cans (red = unleaded, green = unleaded, black = diesel) from a good manufacturer like Sealey or Draper, together with a calibrated mixing bottle to help you achieve an accurate mix.
Always clean the spark plug regularly clean your air and oil filters, and the carburettor, and you should find that starting and running are smooth. Replace the spark plug if performance is suffering: if its nose is regularly found to be black with carbon then you may be running too rich an oil mixture or leaving the choke on for too long.
If idling is not steady and even, or if the engine cuts out during idling, in most cases the following idling adjustment procedure should work:
Start and run the engine for about three minutes to warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Then move the throttle control from the half-choke to the idle setting. Turn the engine's idle speed screw anticlockwise until the engine idles steadily without stalling. If the engine falters, turn the idle screw clockwise a quarter-turn.
The pull cord is an item that always takes a hammering and when it fails, it is possible to replace it if you are careful: but beware not to unseat the springs that are in place to create the essential recoil.
Remove the screws holding the starter cover to the main engine. These are usually on the underside. Remove the cover with care. Pull the spring clip to remove it from the motor. Remove the washer and pawl from beneath the spring clip. The washer is a metallic ring and the pawl is the item that holds the clip in place.
Gently lever the cap from the top of the cord's T handle. Remove the old cord from the handle and then remove it from the pulley. Thread new cord through the handle and replace the cap.
Thread the other end of the new starter cord through the hole at the top of the pulley. Tie a double knot at the end of the cord to retain it. Push the pawl back in place then slide the washer on. Using needle-nose pliers, work the clip back securely onto the post. Replace the starter cover on the engine and refit its bolts. Pull the starter cord to check it is operating correctly.
Winterization Petrol engines needs to be 'winterized'. This is a simple but essential measure. Empty the fuel tank, then start the engine and run the remaining fuel until the engine stops (max the choke to get it all out), then turn over once more to check it's all out. Remove the spark plug. Spray penetrating oil inside, turn the engine again so it coats the piston rings. The spray lubricates and protects against rust. Replace plug. The spray residue also helps as a quick start agent when you come to fire up again in Spring.
Whether you can do all the maintenance yourself, or leave it to a professional company, an annual service of your leaf blower/vacuum machine is a wise precaution to ensure that it continues to serve you for many years.
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